Some people prefer to fly straight to the islands, but I always like to spend a day or two in Athens at either end of a trip to the Greek islands. I do understand why some people might not be a fan of the city… It can feel chaotic, unbearably hot in summer, and its drug problems are hard to ignore. But once you look beyond the surface, Athens has so much to offer. The food and drink scene is exceptional, with an ever-growing list of places I want to try. There are beautiful neighbourhoods to wander through, welcoming locals, and surprisingly affordable hotels and places to rent, many with fantastic rooftop pools. What I love most is the contrast: ancient history and crumbling architecture sitting alongside stylish new restaurants and bars. After more than twenty visits, Athens has become something of a second home for me.
📝 Find a Google Maps link here.
📝 The best way to explore the Greek islands is by ferry. In summer ferry tickets can sell out quick so I recommend buying them ahead of time. The best website to book your tickets is on ferryhopper.com. I also find it useful to check ferry routes here.
📝 If you want to stay in a hotel with a rooftop pool I recommend Electra Metropolis Athens, Fresh Hotel or Melia Athens. They’re all in good locations for exploring the city. I always recommend getting a hotel with a pool as Athens gets incredibly hot in summer so you aren’t going to be walking round during the day. I used to stay at The Stanley but I think they let non-guest pay to use the pool now which makes it incredibly crowded.
📝 If you don’t care about tanning by a rooftop pool then an Airbnb is a cheaper option. You can get a modern central apartment for around €50 a night. I recommend anywhere in Psyri or Exarcheia.
📝 Athens actually has a really beautiful coastline 35-45 minutes taxi or train from the city centre if you want to get away to the beach. Lake Vouliagmeni is also a great option to spend a day as well as the little coves nearby.
📝 When it comes to beer, first time tourists always gravitate to Mythos but there are so many better ones. Instead try Mamos, Sparta, Nisos, Fix, Nymfi, Eza, Alfa, Alfa Salt, Virgina, Kaiser, Fishcher.
📝 Athens has a lot of great bars. For cocktails I recommend Baba au Rum, The Clumsies, Line, Bar Ideal, Norman, Couleur Locale, Cantina Social, Barro Negro, 7 Jokers, Jazz In Jazz. For beer checking Barley Cargo. For wine checkout Warehouse, Heteroclito. For local spirits checkout Brettos.
1. Karamanlidika – Τα Καραμανλίδικα του Φάνη
📍 Psyri. This is a restaurant I’ve been coming back to for more than a decade. The name, Karamanlidika, refers to the Karamanlides—Anatolian Greeks who were forced to leave their homeland during the population exchange between Greece and Turkey in 1923. The menu reflects the culinary traditions of the regions they came from, particularly Karaman and Cappadocia, which is why some dishes may feel familiar to anyone who knows Turkish cuisine. Karamanlidika began life as a deli specialising in cured meats. When a space opened up across the street, the owners expanded into a full restaurant, building a menu around those same exceptional products. I’ve never had a bad meal here, but on this visit I ordered the soujuk with eggs, a Greek salad, and fried beef with potatoes and plenty of dill. As always, the meal ended with a complimentary dessert: thick Greek yogurt topped with marmalade. They also have an excellent selection of Greek beers and wines, and perhaps the most surprising thing of all is the price. The quality is outstanding, yet the bill is always far lower than you’d expect.
2. To Steki Tou Ilia
📍Thiseio. A traditional Greek grill house serving some of the best paidakia (barbecued lamb chops) you’re likely to find anywhere. I’ve been coming here for nearly fifteen years, and it still delivers every time. Go easy on the starters—tempting as they are. The fries, horta, fava, Greek salad, and tzatziki can easily fill you up before the main event arrives. If you’re dining in a group, it’s worth branching out beyond the lamb chops and trying other grilled meats too, especially the streaky pork (pork belly), which is just as good. Most of the seating is tucked away in a hidden garden just opposite the restaurant, giving it a relaxed, slightly secret feel that makes the whole experience even better.
3. Diporto
📍Psyri. Hidden just off Athens Central Market, this 150-year-old underground taverna is easy to walk straight past—there’s no sign outside, and no menu waiting for you at the door. Inside, things are deliberately simple: no choices, no ordering, just a handful of dishes cooked fresh each day. You sit down, wine arrives, and the food follows shortly after. It typically comes down to around four traditional plates, shaped entirely by what’s fresh that day. Expect hearty, homestyle Greek cooking, served in a basement space that feels almost unchanged by time. In recent years this place has become extremely popular with tourists so I recommend coming early and ticking it off for breakfast rather than lunch.
4. Taverna Oikonomou 1930
📍Ano Petralona. Often described as one of the oldest tavernas in Athens, this tucked-away gem in Petralona has a quiet, lived-in charm that feels far removed from the city just beyond it. Expect classic, home-style Greek cooking—generous portions, slow-cooked dishes, and a nostalgic atmosphere that has barely changed over the decades. It’s long been one of my favourite places for vegetable-forward plates and traditional meat stews. The taverna changed ownership in 2023, but thankfully very little else has shifted beyond a few thoughtful updates like new artwork on the walls and beautifully printed plates that still feel in keeping with its character. It’s an incredibly relaxed spot for a long lunch or unhurried dinner—especially if you’re not negotiating mealtime with a two-year-old. On my last visit I had the mixed vegetable plate (courgette, okra, green beans, aubergine and tomatoes), rabbit stifado, meatballs with potatoes, gigantes, and watermelon to finish. The stuffed cabbage and rooster with pasta are also local favourites and well worth ordering if you’ve got a group and want to share a bit of everything. Go with company, order widely, and take your time with it.
5. Ouzeri Lesvos
📍 Exarcheia. I was drawn in by the painted window at Ouzeri Lesvos a few years ago and have been a fan ever since. The restaurant gets its name from the island of Lesvos, the third largest Greek island, and the menu is a reflection of food from the island too. The drink of choice here is obviously ouzo, given that it’s an ouzeri, and they have one of the largest selections I’ve seen at a restaurant (I count 17 different bottles in the last photo). I went for the red mullet, white beans, preserved mackerel (they have a lot of preserved fish), and fried peppers. I love all the dishes but the white beans and red mullet are favourites of mine. A lot of restaurants close between lunch and dinner in Athens but this spot stays open so great option if you need to eat at an odd hour.
6. Manári Taverna
📍Psyri. Manári is a modern take on the classic Athenian grill taverna—focused on meat, and built around the idea of sharing good food with the table. It sits just off Agion Theodoron Square and has quickly become one of the city’s most talked-about openings in recent years. The concept is simple but well-executed: grilled lamb chops, mutton, offal, and carefully selected cuts cooked over fire, paired with straightforward but essential sides like fried potatoes, seasonal greens, feta, and olive oil. It’s the kind of place that works best in groups due to the large portions. The atmosphere is lively and social, with an energy that sits somewhere between neighbourhood taverna and contemporary Athenian dining room. Expect it to be busy, especially in the evenings, and worth booking ahead.
📍Exarcheia. A beautiful open courtyard restaurant in Exarcheia, serving modern Greek dishes. This is a great area if you’re looking for somewhere a little more laidback with less tourists. Ama Lachei is one that pops up on a lot of ‘best of Athen’s’ lists so been on my hit-list for years and it delivered. All the dishes were great and with plenty of ouzo & wine between three the meal only came to around €20 a person.
7. Atlantikos
📍Psyri. The best and cheapest spot for seafood in central Athens. We went for fried shrimp, potatoes, seabass, dorado, green beans in garlic, lentils and anchovies, spicy peppers, a Greek salad & portokalopita to finish. The whole order with half a litre of wine, beer and ouzo came to €80 between four. You can’t go wrong.
8. Aster
📍Petralona. Modern Cretan cuisine that feels noticeably different from the classic Athenian taverna. The cooking is rooted in tradition but pushed in a more contemporary direction, with a real emphasis on seasonal ingredients. I’m a fan of the Cretan-style carbonara and the fresh salads. Service is warm and attentive, and the overall atmosphere strikes a nice balance between neighbourhood ease and modern polish. It’s the kind of place locals go when they want Greek cooking, but with a lighter, more creative touch rather than the usual taverna format.
9. Seychelles
📍Metaxourgeio. Seychelles is one of the early pioneers of modern Athenian dining, set in a lively square with plenty of outdoor seating that really comes into its own in spring and summer when tables spill across the street. Despite the name, it has nothing to do with the Indian Ocean—the spot opened in 2014 in a building that previously housed a restaurant called Bahamas, so the tropical naming tradition simply continued. The cooking blends Greek ingredients with contemporary techniques, creating inventive dishes that helped shape the city’s newer restaurant scene. Service is relaxed and confident, and the overall feel is buzzy but unpretentious. The standout dish is the pappardelle with kavourmas (slow-cooked beef and lamb confit) and galomyzithra cheese—rich, comforting, and essential ordering. We also had the pork chops with fig honey, which were excellent, along with green beans with garlic, tomatoes and pickled grapes, plus fries on the side.
10. The Traditional
📍Syntagma. Το Παραδοσιακό (The Traditional). This is a classic, no-frills taverna serving some seriously impressive spit-roasted meats that quite literally fall off the bone, typically paired with a generous portion of fries. I go-to is the lamb, which is excellent, but the pork kontosouvli and chicken are just as popular. It’s straightforward, reliable, and welcoming.
11. O Tsombanakos
📍 Kaisariani. O Tsombanakos (est. 1954) is a much-loved neighbourhood taverna in Kaisariani, and home to what’s said to be the only working jukebox left in Athens. It’s a classic, unpretentious meze spot with a loyal local following including regular visits from Olympiacos players. The staff are famously generous, often offering complimentary drinks, and the prices remain remarkably low, with many dishes starting from around €3. Everything I tried was good, but the lamb chops are the standout and well worth ordering. A whole meal comes to around €25-30 per person, which feels almost absurd given the quality and quantity.
12. Klimataria
📍Psyri. classic Athenian taverna doing all the staples properly, with no unnecessary reinvention—just solid, traditional Greek cooking in a setting that feels genuinely historic. The yemista (stuffed peppers and tomatoes) were outstanding, and the lamb kleftiko was just as good—slow-cooked, rich, and full of flavour. Dating back to the 1920s, it’s one of the city’s older surviving tavernas, known for its straightforward menu of Greek classics, house wine served from barrels, and occasional live music that spills into the evening. The vine-covered courtyard is where it really comes alive, especially on warm nights, giving it that timeless Psyri atmosphere that makes you want to stay far longer than planned.
13. Pharaoh
📍Exarcheia. One of the hottest new restaurants in Athens. It’s a buzzing space on a dark street with a long bar and DJ right in the middle. The crowd is bougie. Despite the very modern look and feel, all the food is traditional. Exactly what I want. No bullshit. Highlights for me were the horta, stifado & rabbit. We also tried lambs liver, slow-cooked lamb, taramasalata, and smoked aubergine dip (we definitely over-ordered). All the dishes were delicious, service was great and the place is a vibe. The only thing pulling it back a little were the prices – they charge more than average for Athens, especially the area (Exarcheia). You have Rosalia just down the road which is obscenely cheap. The alcohol stood out as especially expensive – they only served small bottles of Mikonu from €6-€8 a bottle. Overall you’re looking at around €50 a head.
14. O Telis Mprizoladiko
📍Psyri. This spot serve some of the best pork chops in Athens served with an unreal dish of fresh tomatoes, peppers, olive oil and feta. It’s good to be back. A legendary meat restaurant famous for its steaks and pork chops cooked over charcoal. The menu is straightforward, portions are generous, and the focus is entirely on delivering perfectly grilled meat.
15. Linou Soumpasis
📍Psyri. A stylish contemporary restaurant in Psyrri that has quickly become one of Athens’ most talked-about dining rooms. The menu is seasonal and creative, blending Greek ingredients with modern European influences in an intimate setting. I went for the sourdough pita and tarama, fresh cheese and honeycomb, Horta and tomato, wreckfish & mussels vermicelli, and courgette pasta. My favourite dishes were the three starters. All the food was delicious but it is very expensive for Athens… Closer to what I’d expect to pay in London and double the bill Manari Taverna.
16. Avli
📍Psyri. Avli (Εστιατόριο Αυλή, meaning “courtyard”) is tucked away in a hidden leafy space in Psyri and began life in the 1980s as a makeshift taverna serving local workers in the area. It still centres around a small kitchen producing simple, traditional Greek dishes done with a homemade touch rather than any modern reinterpretation. On my last visit, I went for fries with eggs, fried peppers, and the keftedes—which are widely regarded as some of the best in the city. The setting is what really carries it: a relaxed courtyard that makes it easy for a long lunch to drift into the evening without you noticing. It’s closed on Tuesdays. In recent years it’s become much more popular with visitors, and some locals feel the quality has slipped slightly, but it still holds on to plenty of its original charm and remains a solid, atmospheric spot in the centre of the city.
17. Ama Laxei
📍Exarcheia. Ama Lachei is a standout courtyard restaurant in Exarcheia, set in a converted school building with long communal tables under trees and lights. It feels local, relaxed, and a welcome break from Athens’ more tourist-heavy dining spots. The menu is modern Greek, focused on sharing plates that are simple but really well done, pairing perfectly with wine or ouzo. Between three people, with plenty of drinks, we spent around €20 each—great value for the quality, atmosphere, and experience.
18. Rozalia
📍Exarcheia. Rozalia is a long-running, casual taverna in Exarcheia known for its lively courtyard and classic Greek comfort food. Set on Valtetsiou Street, it has a relaxed, slightly chaotic charm—big communal tables, busy service, and a mix of locals and visitors. The menu focuses on traditional dishes done simply and generously: grilled meats, meze, salads, and hearty plates like moussaka and lamb, with plenty of house wine and ouzo flowing. It’s not fine dining, but that’s the point—good-value, unfussy food in a buzzing neighbourhood setting that feels very “old Athens.” Best experienced in the evening when the courtyard is full and the atmosphere is at its peak.
19. Mandraki Tavern
📍 Kaisariani. Mandraki Tavern is a long-established traditional Greek grill house known for its charcoal-grilled meats, generous portions, and relaxed neighborhood atmosphere. Popular with locals as well as visitors, it serves classic kebabs like souvlaki, gyros, as well as lamb chops, kontosouvli, kokoretsi, grilled sausages, Greek salads, and a range of meze. You’re not likely to find any tourists here.
20. Tis Theatrou to Steki
📍Psyri. Tis Theatrou to Steki is something of an Athens institution, opening its doors at 6:00am, where it’s perfectly acceptable to start the day with a beer, ouzo or tsipouro alongside breakfast. A favourite with workers from the nearby Central Market, this traditional taverna is renowned for its authentic, home-style Greek cooking, serving generous small sharing plates from around €3 each. Expect classic dishes including slow-cooked stews, grilled meats, stuffed vegetables and daily specials in a lively, no-frills setting that attracts locals and visitors alike. Open for breakfast and lunch only, and closed on Sundays.
21. Oinomageireio Epirus
📍Syntagma. Oinomageireio Epirus (est.1898) is a historic, no-frills Greek “mageirio” (home-style cookhouse) located inside Athens’ Central Market, serving traditional comfort food. It’s best known for deeply traditional dishes such as rich soups, slow-cooked meats, and rustic stews, prepared in a simple, canteen-like setting surrounded by the bustle of market traders. If you fancy a goat stew and a beer for breakfast then this is the place to go.
22. To Steki Tou Maki
📍Syntagma. Located in Athens’ Central Fish Market (Varvakios Market), To Steki Tou Maki is a small, family-run seafood taverna known for serving exceptionally fresh fish and seafood sourced directly from the surrounding market stalls. The restaurant traces its roots back to around 1980 but has been run by a welcoming Bulgarian man for the past 23 years.
23. Mourouzis Taverna
📍 Mavrikeza. Mourouzis Taverna is a long-running, rustic Greek grill house located in Mavrikeza, around 50 minutes from central Athens or roughly 35 minutes south of the airport. Known for its generous portions, outstanding hospitality, and old-school, meat-focused taverna style, it has become a destination spot for those willing to travel for a proper countryside dining experience. The menu is built around classic Greek barbecue staples, with highlights such as kontosouvli (pork cooked on the spit), lamb on the spit, and oversized beef burgers with feta. Meals are typically served in hearty portions meant for sharing, reinforcing its lively, communal atmosphere. To finish, guests are often treated to complimentary desserts like Greek yogurt served with marmalades and liqueurs, adding to the sense of traditional generosity that defines the experience. Popular with groups, families, and pre-flight diners, it’s widely regarded as a worthwhile stop for authentic Greek grill culture outside the city.
24. Fita
📍 Koukaki. A modern Greek restaurant in the Koukaki neighbourhood. The cooking is refined yet approachable, with a menu that changes frequently according to the seasons. One of the newer names helping shape Athens’ exciting contemporary food scene. The service was incredibly slow here which let my meal down a little though.
25. Warehouse
📍Exarcheia. Warehouse Athens is a contemporary wine bar and dining space in central Athens, known for its industrial-style setting and focus on natural wines paired with modern small plates.
26. Feyrouz
📍Syntagma. Feyrouz is a popular street food spot in central Athens known for its handmade Middle Eastern-inspired pies and baked goods. Located near the historic centre, it specialises in fresh, thin dough pastries filled with ingredients such as spiced meats, vegetables, cheeses, and herbs, drawing inspiration from Armenian, Lebanese, and broader Eastern Mediterranean cuisine.
Souvlaki
1. Achilleas
📍 Neos Kosmos. Achilleas is a long-running, no-frills gyros and souvlaki spot located in Neos Kosmos, a residential neighbourhood just south of central Athens. Operating since 1987, it has built a strong local reputation for serving the best gyros in town. The gyros is made in house each day with thick fresh slices of well seasoned pork. They’re open during the week only from 16:30 and often sell out by 20:00 so go early. Watch my reel here.
2. Lefteris o Politis
📍 Omonia. Greece a is one of Athens’ most iconic souvlaki institutions that I keep coming back to. Founded in 1951 near Omonia, by Stavros Savvoglou, a refugee from Constantinople, it became known for refusing to change its simple recipe for over seven decades. Unlike most modern souvlaki shops, Lefteris serves a minimalist pita filled with a charcoal-grilled beef kebab, fresh tomato, onion, parsley, and paprika. No fries, no tzatziki, no sauces at all actually. The kebabs are flavourful and juicy, and the pita is spongey. They’re only €2.70 each and there’s also a spicy version. Just a note that this street and a few coming off are overrun by crackheads so it’s not uncommon to see somebody shooting on your way here.
3. Georgios
📍Piraeus. Ο Γιώργος (Georgios / George in English) is a classic souvlaki spot in Piraeus serving a truly traditional version of the dish. I usually head straight from town to the port, but this place is absolutely worth a stop along the way. They specialise in the original style of souvlaki—bifteki in pita. The pita is filled with grilled beef patties, house-made tomato sauce, fresh tomato, and onions. This is a recipe rooted in the 1950s, before tzatziki and fries became standard additions in the 1970s. What makes it stand out is the preparation: the pita is lightly fried in beef fat, giving it a crisp texture and deep, rich flavour. The owner is also genuinely welcoming, which adds to the experience. Watch my full reel here.
4. O Thanasis
📍Monastiraki. O Thanasis is one of Athens’ most famous souvlaki institutions in Monastiraki. It’s busy, fast-moving, and consistently good for charcoal-grilled meats, pita wraps, and classic no-nonsense Greek street food. My favourite dishes to get here is the yogurtlu kebab which includes beef and lamb mince kebab on a fluffy pita, topped with Greek yogurt, tomato sauce, sujuk and spices.
5. Souvlaki Kostas
📍Syntagma. Souvlaki Kostas is one of Athens’ most iconic souvlaki spots, located near Syntagma Square, known for its ultra-traditional, no-frills approach to street food. This tiny takeaway has built its reputation on classic souvlaki served simply in warm pita with pork, tomato, onion, parsley, paprika, and yoghurt, staying true to a 1950s-style Athenian recipe. There are no fries or modern additions, just a stripped-back, historic version of the dish that focuses entirely on quality and balance. Fast-moving and often busy with queues throughout the day, it’s widely regarded as a benchmark for authentic, old-school Greek souvlaki in the city centre. Disappointingly a few years ago they moved address which i feel like caused them to lose a bit of their character. Address: Filellinon 7, Athina 105 57, Greece.
6. Kosta Souvlaki
📍Syntagma. The other Kostas. Kosta Souvlaki is a popular, fast-paced souvlaki spot in the lively Agia Irini Square area of central Athens, known for its simple, well-executed Greek street food and consistent quality. It focuses on classic pita gyros and souvlaki options—typically pork or chicken—served with tomato, onion, a housemade tomato sauce and a few fries. The setting is casual and bustling, with a constant flow of locals and visitors, making it a reliable grab-and-go stop in one of the city’s most energetic dining and nightlife neighbourhoods. Address: Pl. Agias Irinis 2, Athina 105 60, Greece.
7. O Elvis
📍Multiple Locations. Elvis Souvlaki is a cult-favourite souvlaki spot in Athens, originally from Kerameikos and now best known for its lively Pangrati location. They also have a newer spot in Psyri which I wasn’t as much of a fan of. It used to be open 24 hours but now closed at 02:00. It’s a simple, no-frills grill focused on high-quality skewers—pork, chicken, and beef—served straight from the charcoal with warm pita or bread, fries, and classic sauces. Expect a busy, local feel with fast service, small outdoor seating, and a constant flow of takeaway orders. It’s especially popular late at night thanks to its consistency and fair prices, making it one of those reliable
8. Kalamaki Bar
📍Koukaki. Kalamaki Bar is a modern souvlaki spot that elevates street food slightly with quality ingredients and a cleaner, more design-led space. Great for quick but reliable wraps and grilled skewers.
9. To Prodorpion
📍 To Prodorpion is a traditional grill house known for straightforward, affordable plates—think souvlaki, gyros, and simple meze. It’s informal, quick, and very much in the “grab a table and eat well” category of Athens dining.
10. Falafellas
📍Syntagma. Falafellas is a well-known street food spot in central Athens, famous for its oversized, freshly made falafel wraps served to order. Located on Aiolou Street near Monastiraki, it draws steady queues thanks to its generous portions, quick service, and consistent quality.
Bakeries
1. Mam
📍Multiple Locations. Μάμ, or Mam in English, is a well-known spot in central Athens for its traditional bougatsa, a classic Greek pastry made with thin, flaky filo filled with cheese, spinach, meat or a creamy semolina custard filling. Served fresh and often dusted generously with icing sugar and cinnamon, it’s a go-to for a simple, indulgent breakfast or sweet snack.
2. Makedonikon
📍 Exarcheia. Makedonikon is a popular bakery and casual food spot in central Athens, known for its traditional Greek baked goods and quick street-food-style snacks. It’s especially well regarded for classic items like bougatsa, cheese pies, and other filo pastries, typically served fresh, warm, and generously portioned.
3. Lukumades
📍Monastiraki. Lukumades is a modern dessert spot in central Athens best known for its freshly fried loukoumades—Greek doughnuts served hot and made to order. Located near Monastiraki on Aiolou Street, it has become a popular stop for both locals and visitors looking for a sweet treat after exploring the city centre.
4. To Koulouri of Psirri
📍Psyri. To Koulouri of Psirri is a well-known street bakery in the Psirri area, famous for its fresh koulouri—the classic sesame-covered bread ring that’s a staple Athenian breakfast. It’s a simple, no-frills spot where locals stop for a quick, affordable bite on the go, often enjoyed warm in the morning with coffee.
5. Krinos
📍Psyri. Krinos Loukoumades is a historic dessert shop operating since 1923, renowned for its traditional loukoumades—crispy, golden Greek doughnuts drizzled with honey and cinnamon. Located near the centre of Athens, it offers a nostalgic, old-school café experience that preserves one of the city’s most classic sweet traditions.
6. Kokkinos
📍Psyri. Kokkion is a small-batch artisanal ice cream shop in central Athens, known for its high-quality, made-daily gelato and sorbet using carefully sourced ingredients like Greek milk, French chocolate, nuts, and seasonal fruit.
James Dimitri 