One of my favourite European cities for its beautiful tiled buildings, fresh seafood and ridiculously cheap beer. I’m always up for a trip back to Lisbon.
📝 Taxis are super cheap in Lisbon. You can get from the airport to town for under €10.
📝 Due to the one-way systems and traffic, bikes and scooters are the quickest way to get around.
📝 Drinking; By The Wine for good wines, Miradouro de Santa Catarina for cheap kiosk beers with a beautiful view, Park Rooftop Bar another popular rooftop bar – expect slow service, TOPO for good cocktails with a nice view, Sol e Pesca for tinned seafood and cheap beers on Pink Street, A Tasca do Chico for live fado music, A Ginjinha Registada for a bottle of sweet cherry wine.
📝 When you are leaving, make sure you get to the airport two hours early if you have a bag to check-in. It’s chaotic.
1. Cervejaria Ramiro
When speaking about Ganbara Bar in San Sebastián, Tony Bourdain said ‘I come here every time, like a heat-seeking missile’. I’m like that with Cervejaria Ramiro. I’ve been to Lisbon four times and it’s always the first place I head, sometimes still with my luggage. A local will sometimes try and tell you there’s a better seafood restaurant in another part of town because they think Ramiro is expensive, but it never is. There’s a special energy about the place – manic but organised at the same time. The seafood is as good as it gets, the Sagres couldn’t be crisper, and the steak sandwich to finish always hits the spot. It’s in my top ten restaurants in the world.
2. Ponto Final
Ponto Final is one of those spots that makes it impossible not to love this city. It used to be a bit of a hidden gem but has become one of the top visited restaurants by tourists due to the incredible views. Book months ahead via email or arrive thirty minutes early (11:30 for lunch or 18:30 for dinner) and join the queue. It feels like lisbon is in general is becoming one big series of queues. You can either get here by ferry and a short walk or twenty minute taxi and short walk.
3. A Valenciana
My favourite spot in the city for piri piri chicken. A Valenciana has been a Lisbon institution since 1914. The chicken here is cooked slowly over coals creating a super crispy & salty skin but remaining moist on the inside. Don’t hold back on their house made chilli oil. For around €15 you can get half a chicken, fries, rice, salad & a drink. Incredible scenes.
4. Pasteis de Belem
A Lisbon institution for pasteis de nata (Portuguese custard tarts) and another essential visit. Arrive earlier to avoid the queues. Don’t bother with the other items on the menu. Head to the back of the bakery to see how they’re made. Walk over to Belém Tower after then head along the seafront back to town.
5. Ze dos Cornos
The star dish at Zé dos Cornos is the entrecosto grelhado (pork ribs cooked over charcoal). Over-salty but so tasty. There’s something about working-class Portuguese food that always hits the spot for me. Get a side of with arroz de feijão (rice & beans) too.
6. Manteigaria
Another more modern pasteis de nata bakery. A lot of people claim these to be better than Pastéis de Belém and they might edge it for me too. You could easily eat four to yourself so don’t under-order.
7. Bonjardim
Bonjardim (est 1959) – one of the first restaurants in Lisbon to serve peri-peri chicken. Here they cook it rotisserie style instead of grilling it. That super salty skin definitely does the trick.
8. Casa da India
Despite the name, this is not an Indian restaurant. The name comes from the Casa da India spice trade organisation which started in the 1500s. Later on a spice shop with the same name opened up in Lisbon, and that eventually became this restaurant in 1938. I went for the Gambas á guilho and one of the soups. Service is friendly and quick. Prices are cheap. Open till 01:00am.
9. Tasca da Esquina
A Modern Portuguese tapas restaurant. I loved then octopus salad sautéed with peppers & onions.
10. Bairro Do Avillez
There are two parts to this restaurant. A tapas restaurant in the front and a fish restaurant in the back. I’ve only tried the one in the front. The decor inside is beautiful in both.
11. A Cevicheria
A Peruvian restaurant serving great ceviche and other seafood dishes. They do a really good pisco sour here too which you can drink outside the front whilst you wait for a table.
12. Bifanas Do Sr. Afonso
Another popular spot for a bifanas. A sandwich and beer here will cost you €4. Open 08:30-18:30. Closed Sunday.
13. O Trevo
A popular spot for a bifanas. Famous visited by Anthony Bourdain. A bifana and beer will set you back only €3.50 here. Open 07:00-22:30. Closed Sunday.
14. Time Out Market
A buzzing market with lots of good food options. Open until 02:00am. It’s a little touristy but a good way to try a few dishes from different restaurants around town. A couple of my favourites are the seared tuna sandwich at SeaMe and the suckling pig at Henrique Sa Pessoa.
15. O Triangulo da Ribeira
Another popular spot for bifanas behind Time Out Market. Here i paid only €3 for a bifana with cheese & a beer.
16. Gelateria Nannarella
A great spot for gelato.
17. Landeau Choclate
A few locations in the city. Go for a slice of their famous chocolate cake.
18. A Taberna da Rua das Flores
A beautiful little restaurant serving traditional Portuguese dishes in a modern way. The menu changes daily. On my most recent visit a few of the dishes were a bit of a miss and seemed a bit overpriced which is why I have moved it further down on this list.
19. Princesa
If you fancy getting out the city for the day and hitting the beach, this is a great spot to go for lunch. They serve whole grilled turbot, sea bream and great rose sangria. The only thing that lets this spot down is the service. Anything you ask an employee, the first response is always no.
How to spend a weekend in Lisbon:
Where to eat bifanas in Lisbon:
James Dimitri 